Garden Installation

For most deciduous trees and shrubs autumn is the best time — the soil is warm, there is more rainfall, and the plant has until spring to develop roots. In Vojvodina the first frosts normally arrive in the second half of October, so autumn planting is timed to give the plant a few weeks in warm soil beforehand. Early spring is the other good opportunity, before the leaves break; container-grown stock can also go in during the season with regular watering, while bare-root planting is tied to the dormant period.

In our climate perovskia, sedum, feather grass, ornamental grasses and hardy lavender cultivars (Lavandula angustifolia) do well, and among shrubs tamarisk, barberry and cornelian cherry — all of them cope with sunny positions and lighter soils. Rosemary is often mentioned in the same breath, but in continental Serbia it is not reliably winter-hardy and needs a sheltered spot and protection, so we do not count it as a maintenance-free choice. The key is to group plants by their need for water, so that drought-lovers do not share an irrigation zone with plants that want moisture, and we make the selection according to the climate, aspect and soil type on your plot.

Mulch holds moisture in the soil, keeps the root temperature even, suppresses weeds and gradually enriches the soil as it breaks down. A layer of five to seven centimetres is usually enough, with the rule that it should never be piled up against the trunk itself, since trapped moisture against the bark leads to rot. Mulching comes as the final stage of setting out a garden, together with finishing the paths and clearing up.

Smaller gardens are usually finished within a few days, while a complete overhaul of a larger area takes two to four weeks, depending on the extent of the groundworks and paths. The order is always the same — site analysis, plan and schedule of works, execution, then fine-tuning. We only give an exact timescale after the site visit, because access to the plot and the state of the soil often have more bearing on the pace than the area itself.

Among trees, lime, Norway maple, honey locust, hackberry, cornelian cherry and wild pear; among shrubs, privet, barberry, wayfaring tree, forsythia, hibiscus and smoke bush; among perennials and grasses, sage, echinacea, yarrow, perovskia, miscanthus and feather grass. For shaded areas, hosta, hellebore, bergenia and Japanese sedge.

Bay and oleander do not overwinter outdoors here, and rosemary is only conditionally hardy — it needs a sheltered, dry, sunny spot or winter protection. Lavender is usable, but in hardy varieties of narrow-leaved lavender and with good drainage.

The best time is autumn, from mid-September to mid-October, with early spring — mid-March to early April — as the second option. Thuja Smaragd is planted 60–70 cm apart, Brabant 80–100 cm, cherry laurel 70–100 cm and privet 40–50 cm.

Yes. Plants that fail to establish during the first growing season are replaced, provided the agreed watering and aftercare were followed.

We source the plant material ourselves, from the nurseries we work with. Plants are chosen to suit the conditions on site and what genuinely does well in this climate.

No. Clearing what is already there is part of the quotation for the garden and is priced together with the rest of the work.

Yes, we build paths and paved areas ourselves, as part of the same job. That means one contractor for the whole garden and one schedule, rather than coordinating several crews.

It means we carry out the work in the scope and manner agreed beforehand, using the best-quality materials, plants and equipment available to us. It covers how the work is carried out and the quality of what we install. The aim is work done properly and a result you are satisfied with.