Lawn Care and Maintenance

In full season, through spring and early summer, usually once a week; in the dry part of summer, every ten to fifteen days, as the grass grows more slowly. Follow the one-third rule — never take off more than a third of the leaf height at once, because cutting too short weakens the roots and lets weeds in. Under regular maintenance we match mowing to how the grass is actually growing rather than to the calendar.

In summer the grass should be kept longer than in spring — a longer leaf shades the soil, slows evaporation and protects the roots from overheating. Through July and August we raise the cutting height to six to eight centimetres, whereas four to five centimetres is the spring and autumn height. A lawn cut too short in the summer months is the first to yellow and the quickest to thin out, so as a rule we also leave the finely chopped clippings as mulch, except when the lawn is wet or there are signs of disease.

The basic rhythm is a feed in early spring, as the grass starts into growth, then again through the season, and an autumn feeding weighted towards potassium, which strengthens the roots and prepares the lawn for winter. The type of fertiliser is chosen according to the state of the lawn — a pale green colour and weak growth say one thing, moss and compacted soil something else entirely. Under seasonal maintenance contracts feeding goes hand in hand with aeration and monitoring, so the plan is adjusted as the year goes on.

Moss is usually the symptom rather than the cause — it appears where the soil is compacted, where water sits, where there is too much shade, or where the lawn has been cut too short for a long time. The remedy starts with aeration and removing the thatch, then feeding and overseeding, along with putting right whatever caused the problem. On site we first assess the condition of the lawn and only then draw up a care plan, because the same symptom in two gardens often has a different cause.

Mowing, feeding, aeration and year-round lawn care. The interval is set by growth rather than the calendar, so it shifts through the season — in midsummer one cut every ten to fourteen days can be enough.

About 25 mm a week in total, rain included, given in two deeper waterings rather than a short daily sprinkle. Water early in the morning, roughly between four and nine, when evaporation is lowest and the blade dries by midday.

In early autumn, and the best moment is the start of September: the soil is still warm, the nights are cooler, and there is enough time before the first frosts in the second half of October for new seed to root. Aeration, overseeding and the autumn feed all happen together then.

Most often it is the summer dormancy of cool-season grasses rather than a disease. Dormancy is even, and the base of the blade at soil level stays pale green and firm, whereas drought is patchy and hits high spots, path edges and south-facing areas first.

As a rule no — finely chopped clippings fall between the blades, hold moisture in the surface layer and return nutrients to the soil, so the lawn copes better with heat. We collect them when the lawn is overgrown or wet, when leaf disease appears, or when weeds have gone to seed.

On a regular maintenance contract, green waste removal is included. On one-off visits it is charged separately, because the volume varies a great deal by season and by site.

On a regular maintenance contract we guarantee the result of overseeding and weed control, because the aftercare is then ours. For one-off overseeding the result depends on watering and weather after we leave.

It means we carry out the work in the scope and manner agreed beforehand, using the best-quality materials, plants and equipment available to us. It covers how the work is carried out and the quality of what we install. The aim is work done properly and a result you are satisfied with.